Question 9 - Replacing Rotted Bulkheads

How much work is it to replace rotted bulkheads?

Answer: From Old Boater Dean


Over the years, I have replaced four bulkheads in my ' 78 CAH.

Quick (more-or-less) answer: Starting with the bulkhead under the console as #1, #2 is between what we call the "root cellar" and the water tank; #3 is between the water tank and the fwd fuel tank; #4 is between the fuel tanks; #5 is between the aft fuel tank and the poop holding tank; and #6 is between the poop tank and the engine compartment.

The repair to all is to cut out the bad wood, and fill in the void with a piece of MARINE PLYWOOD (the originals weren't) cut to the proper shape; then glass that patch in on both sides. Sometimes the bad wood goes all the way to the gunnels; it almost always goes down to the stringers --- that's where the water probably wicked up to start with.

You said #1 seemed ok. #2 can be repaired with maybe no major screwing around, except it may be necessary to unhook the (empty) water tank and slide it aft to be able to glass the aft side of the bulkhead. You still have to crawl over the water tank to get at it, but I'm 6'5", and I was able to do it.

#3 can be done if an access opening is left on the port side to enable you to get at the aft side of the bulkhead; then screw a cover over the opening. Not necessary to glass the seam of the cover; it gives you access to that compartment for future whatever. Maybe the screw-on cover is not completely watertight, but it's close enough for me.

#4 and #5 cannot be repaired without pulling the fuel tanks out. If the "how to" is not in Carl's website, I could give you a step-by-step. Sounds awful; it really wasn't too bad. I replaced the tanks while they were out. Supplier in the Fixit Book. About $650 each.

I haven't done #6. I'm told the easiest is to "sister" a new bulkhead on one side or the other of it. Lots of holes for pipes, wires, tubing, etc. That one has to be airtight when you're through; it keeps CO out of your bilge area.

It's a heckuva mess. Cutting the old wood out and grinding the old fiberglass down to be able to attach the new wood to the hull makes dust, dust, dust. I did #2 and #3 (at different times) with no sophisticated tools. I gave my "Watch-The-Boat-While-I'm-Gone" handyman a whole winter to do bulkheads 4 and 5. Not sure how much time it took him, but the bill was under $1000. Doubt that you can get it done that cheap. We left access openings in both bulkheads; now I can get to all compartments if I need to. (The #5 cannot be re-glassed until the (new??) aft tank is put back. He worked it through the access hole.)

NOTE: The manufacturer assures us that the bulkheads are not structural once the house has been attached to the hull --- they just give us the "7 watertight compartments" the boats were advertised as having. My #4 and #5 bulkheads had been disintegrating for several years. Realizing they could not be repaired without chopping up the floor and removing the tanks, I did not attempt the repair until I developed a "weep" leak in one of my fuel tanks, and needed to pull them anyway.

Whew! Can you believe that is the short version?

Good luck!

Old Boater Dean

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